WEEK 1
idea factory
idea factory research 2019/09/02
idea factory research 2019/09/02
--ism-
-materials-
-process-
designers whose work invents our future world 2019/09/07
Helmut Lang
'Without Helmut Lang , there won’t be any Celine (by Phoebe Philo) ,any Raf .' said by Bernard Wilhelm.
Helmut is such an influencer in the fashion industry , when I’m thinking about Helmut’s works , Normcore，diverse experiential materials and playing with the structures of a normal garment pops into my mind . Not only he is the pioneer of these elements but also he infect a bunch of people in the fashion industry. What is more amazing Is that when you look back to Helmut's works you'll never think they are out of fashion .
key words: Normcore ,Neuter, sharp, smart pattern cutting .
Helmut Lang 1999/98 ss paint-splattered jeans
-suspenders inspired by the suit for brolly hopping-
Helmut Lang 1998 ss / Raf Simons 2002 ss
Helmut Lang 1997 ss
Rick Owens 2001 fw
Helmut Lang 1998 menswear
-Among the sharply tailored suits, destined for creative offices, Helmut Lang offered plenty of options for casualwear, including khaki-colored denim, paint-splattered jeans, mesh tops, and over-vests like modern armor.
--PARIS, SEPTEMBER 5, 1997 by LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON
Raf Simons 1999 Menswear
Simons’s idea was to transform the lean-on-top, large-on-the-bottom silhouettes of ravers into structured, sleek garments. The first chapter of the show broke down this concept via 17 black-and-white looks that explored the elements of suiting and shirting, with the occasional geometric or Bauhaus-inspired graphic.
-Simons told the International Herald Tribune’s Suzy Menkes in a preview of the show, titled “Kinetic Youth.” “I ask myself how I can bring that to young people—to a 14-year-old who you never see in a suit?”
Helmut Lang 1998 Menswear/ Yeezy 2015 ready-to-wear. -over-vests like modern armor-
WEEK 2
'your' project
Your project research (Your Data/Your Possessions)2019/09/12
Your project research (Your Data/Your Possessions)2019/09/12
Nils Völker
Reiko Sudo
Chiharu Shiota
Piper Shepard
Kathleen Rogers
Suzumi Noda
Liz Nilsson
Ai Matsumoto
Atelier Manferdini
Lise Bjørne Linnert
Naomi Kobayashi
Maurizio Anzeri
Hussein Chalayan AW 2000
Your project research ( Your Surroundings) 2019/09/12
Your project research (Your Surroundings) 2019/09/12
Hussein Chalayan
As one of the greatest fashion designers in the world, Hussein Chalayan's' fashion shows are characterized by minimal sets and a mood of suspense, incorporating elements of contemporary interiors, urban architecture, and geometric structures. In the shows, the conceptual and theoretical inspirations behind his garments are played out across the body.
'Your' project research (your interpretation) 2019/09/12
'Your' project research (your interpretation ) 2019/09/12
John booth
using different kinds of drawing techniques and drawing materials to make the whole image playful, luscious
Helen Bullock
using simple lines to draw the silhouette and using color blocks to highlight the whole drawings
Prints are bold and strong in color, and illustrations are unique, at times capturing strength and beauty .. others awkwardneSS. All artwork is created by hand, maintain an air of freedom and spontaneity to Bullocks designs.
...Helen ended up in London, after spending time in New York making attempts to become an actress. After meeting and collaborating with an acclaimed Video Artist, she realized that she wanted to pursue a more creative path, and despite having no formal art education gained a place at Central St Martins studying FAshion PRINT (BA/MA).
Howard Tangye
You don’t describe yourself as a fashion illustrator. Why not?
When I draw someone, I’m not really concerned about the clothing; I look for the body through the clothes. But because I’ve lent my work to fashion publications, and some drawings appeared in the Galliano book, people associate me with this type of drawing.
delicate fine lines with the color which make people very comfortable
Richard Haines
flexible lines with bold colors , dynamic body, vivid
giving lives to the model on the paper using 'elastic' lines
Library induction
Library Induction - A Random Act 2019/09/11
Key word - Red
when talking about RED the first thing pops into my mind is the oriental culture , red is considered to be lucky color in the oriental culture while a lot of traditional costumes will be made in red . look trough the fashion industry ,while designing something connected with this culture , RED will be widely used .
(Christian Dior by John Galliano Spring Summer 1997 Haute Couture )
（make up from Christian Dior by John Galliano Fall Winter 1997 Ready-to-Wear）
(John Galliano)
Besides,I found hat red and blue have such a interesting relationship (the glasses for watching 3D movie???)
(blue witch by Rei Kawakubo)
(illustration of blue witch by Julien d'Ys)
while this garment is blue , the illustration was plain red , this is kind of interesting
in addition , as you can see from the look of blue witch ,the model's hair is red , which means the two colors -- red and blue have such a strong comparison.
WEEK 3
jacket project
Deconstruction / Martin Margiela (research) 2019/09/17
Martin Margiela
~
As such a great fashion designer in the history ,Margiela's grandma came up with the original idea of 'deconstruction' while Margiela was quite young ,his grandma divided an old coat into two pieces and sewed inside out and a new garment had born.
What is more experimental of Margiela's work is that he did not only deconstruct a garment but also deconstruct different objects like gloves, socks etc.
Repurpose of a garment/object
Deconstruct? Reconstruct?
~
Maison Martin Margiela 2001 ready-to-wear -gloves top-
--Margiela once turned socks into a sweater and gloves into a purse. For Spring ’01, he went with gloves again, this time turning them into a witty vest
PARIS, NOVEMBER 10, 2015
by LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON
Maison Martin Margiela 2001 ready-to-wear -labels top-
Maison Martin Margiela -socks sweater-
Maison Martin Margiela -potsherd top-
Maison Martin Margiela 1996 fall ready-to-wear
(jeans-skirt)
An infinite wardrobe
~
clothes have multiple lives , by this I mean a garment can be considered as a fabric , although the pattern had already been cut, using different ways of reconstruction , a single garment might become diverse form.
Just like Margiela's grandma did before using old clothes to make a new one become a crucial theory in Margiela's brand .
Remembering that Margiela used to have a collection in 1994--collecting a bunch of second hand clothes and redesign them into new clothes while he will also mention the old clothes' information on the label of the clothes ， or even reuse the garments from the previous collection and made them into a different garments.
-Give lives to old clothes-
He exposed the stitches of a garment, rubbed off its edges, or reversed the inside and outside of a garment. These methods of handling clothes are now commonplace, but they were absolutely heretical in his time.
Maison Martin Margiela 1994
Marks on the models' neck presented the clothes' information
the first one of the left:"PE 90"- Printemps-été 1990 (1990SS)
graffiti on the old tabs shoes from last season be used in the new season
Challenge the proportion
~
Apart from deconstruct(destroy and remake) a garment , Margiela is also keen on playing with proportion of the human body .
-Margiela doesn't care much if the proportions seem strange to the eye, if the way he puts his pieces together look unlike what women wear today. That's the point of being avant-garde, isn't it? To disturb in some way.
challenge the rules of the fashion industry can be also be considered as a behavior of deconstruct fashion .
Maison Martin Margiela 2000 spring ready-to-wear
WEEK 4
Bianca's project
Research :Paris is burning 2019/09/29
film: Paris is Burning
~
These categories measured “realness,” the best approximation of an archetype, which in itself was a reflection of society and a world to which they couldn’t gain entry. As Dorian Corey, Mother of the House of Corey, observes in Livingston’s Paris Is Burning:
“In real life, you can’t get a job as an executive unless you have the educational background and the opportunity. Now, the fact that you are not an executive is mere because of the social standing of life. Black people have a hard time getting anywhere and those that do are usually straight. In a ballroom, you can be anything you want. You’re not really an executive but you’re looking like an executive. You’re showing the straight world that I can be an executive if I had the opportunity because can look like one, and that is like a fulfillment.”
The film also documents the origins of "voguing", a dance style in which competing ball-walkers pose and freeze in glamorous positions as if being photographed for the cover of Vogue.
However, Livingston maintained in 1991 that the film was not just about dance:
"This is a film that is important for anyone to see, whether they're gay or not. It's about how we're all influenced by the media; how we strive to meet the demands of the media by trying to look like Vogue models or by owning a big car. And it's about survival. It's about people who have a lot of prejudices against them and who have learned to survive with wit, dignity, and energy."
Bianca's project research 2019/09/24
Bianca's project research 2019/09/24
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Lynette Yiadom Boakye
Her paintings often allude to historic European portraiture – notably Thomas Gainsborough， Francisco de Goya, John Singer Sargent and Édouard Manet – yet in subject matter and technique her approach is decidedly contemporary. Through her focus on the depiction of imagined black characters Yiadom-Boakye’s paintings raise important questions of identity and representation.
https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-britain/exhibition/lynette-yiadom-boakye
pretty eye-catchy oil panting using the texture of the paint to show the feeling, the facial expressions of the people are vivid.
Tracy Emin
sex&love
Emin’s work has an immediacy and often sexually provocative attitude that firmly locates her oeuvre within the tradition of feminist discourse. By re-appropriating conventional handicraft techniques – or ‘women’s work’ – for radical intentions, Emin’s work resonates with the feminist tenets of the ‘personal as political’.
Rape 2018
simple lines to draw the silhouette of the human body and then add the texture things which make the whole paintings having great points but together and harmonious.
Troy Mitchie
Interesting collages playing with the human body and scales of the objects
WEEK 5
Paul's project
(gender)
Bold Beautiful Beauty Bag--Paul Kindersley
research Paul Kindersley 2019/09/09
research 2019/09/09
Paul Kindersley
play the notion of gender
Wylde: Have you always loved to dress up and experiment by playing different characters?
Paul Kindersley: When I was younger we lived in an old school between two churches. So no one from school wanted to come round, because of the graveyards on both sides. I used to go to all the tabletop sales in the churches and buy lots of dresses and high heels. I would pretend that I was doing productions at school of Agatha Christie and needed the high heels for the play. I used to sing Shirley Bassey songs to my mum’s friends, wearing a dress, when they came round. Big Spender sung by a nine-year-old boy in a pleated blue dress is quite weird…[singing] “I don’t pop my cork for every guy I see!” I was getting a lot of stick at school for wearing dresses and stuff, and my mum’s Japanese friend told me that all men in Japan wear dresses or kimonos and that the most powerful men like emperors, or the samurai, all wear them. So after that, if I was wearing long nightshirts, which I used to belt, and people shouted out: “Why are you wearing a dress?”, I’d say: “Actually, it’s a kimono, like all the powerful Japanese warriors would wear, actually!”
https://wyldemag.com/interviews/2019/3/16/the-wylde-interview-paul-kindersley
Style icon?
That has to be Edith Sitwell. Rolling with her look, her big nose, and long hands. You’ve got to go with all the weird things that you’ve got.
Paul wearing my deign in the summer school, 2017.08
Text
WEEK 7
what's the point project
Lady Gaga "Egg" Entrance on the GRAMMY Red Carpet
what‘s the point research - embryo
what's the point project 2019/10/19
what's the point project 2019/10/19
Comme des garçons
comme des garçons 1997 ss ready-to-wear
Maintaining the status quo has never interested Rei Kawakubo. She upset it with outsized clothes that shrouded the body when she made her Paris debut in 1981, and, more than a decade and a half later, she was pushing buttons again with a Spring 1997 collection titled Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body. Often referred to as the “lumps and bumps” show, it featured tubelike gingham dresses stuffed with lumpen filler that sculpted—some said deformed—a new silhouette. “It’s our job to question convention,” the Japanese designer told Vogue. “If we don’t take risks, then who will?”
comme des garçons 2017 fall
Research 2019/10/14
Research 2019/10/14
Izumi Kato
the creatures summoned by Izumi Kato are as fascinating as they are enigmatic. Their anonymous silhouettes and strange faces with absent features are above ...
what's the point project research 2019/10/14
what's the point project research 2019/10/14
Simone Rocha
ss18
ss15
chokey but can breathe.
what's the point project --with development (1:38-1:43)/gender
'what's the point' project research 2019/10/12
'what's the point' project research 2019/10/12
Alan Crocetti x Damien Blottiere
Damien Blottiere
research 2019/10/11
research 2019/10/11
Hans Hemmert
The visitor can according to his size choose the suitable shoe-hight [sic] in order to get a 2-meter body height.
Hans Hemmert uses balloon sculptures to explore the idea of space and form, having the objects take the place of human figures and massive structures. The artist evolved from the human-sized, yellow works of the 1990s to a recent assemblage that takes the shape of an enormous tank
'what's the point' project research 2019/10/09
'what's the point' project research 2019/10/09
keywords: Deconstruct/gender
'what's the point' project research 2019/10/09
'what's the point' project research 2019/10/09
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Claudie Casarino
Claudia Casarino，Uniform，2008 @WAVELENGTH， 中国上海宝龙美术馆，2018
Spanish textiles artist Claudia Casarino uses tulle in her installation Uniforme - a collection of workwear garments made in the delicate fabric. I like the polarising concepts here - the use of a delicate fabric for garments that would be used for hard labor to protect the body. The choice of fabric is ironic. This is the sort of outlook I want for my work, using opposing ideas to make a point about masculinity. The way the installation has been constructed creates an intense depth depending on how you look at the piece due to the nature of the fabric the more it is layered the darker it gets. I like the play on light vs dark.
https://leanneroebuck.wixsite.com/portfolio/single-post/2017/11/15/Claudia-Casarino---Uniforme-2008
Claudia Casarino, Sleep Disorders, 2011
A set of these garments is assembled by the artist as an installation. In different variants (be it filling a space with said garments or piling them up as if they were a-changing skin), these garments have been chosen by the artist for a cause only known to her. If she were to reveal the code, we would only have the voluptuousness of the body that abandoned the garment exhibited.
Casarino has been working with clothes for a while now. She always relates them to a gender perspective. She delivers, thus, a reflection. The garments only mobilize a turn of events, as if her works were a story. In that story, a narrative line develops in one direction, and another narrative line finds the first one; therein lies the turn of events.
These garments, associated with sleep, with peaceful rest in that first narrative line, encounter an atrocious destiny. Some other narrative line preventing the first from developing as it was. Human trafficking barges into intimacy, making that which is vulnerable even more vulnerable: sleep is no longer safe and it may turn into a nightmare.
https://www.artsy.net/show/haw-contemporary-claudia-casarino-sleep-disorder